Fitting LED DRLs – Guide


The Kit

Below are a couple pictures of the kit. It was imported from a German Mitsubishi dealer. This is an official Mitsubishi product which comes with Mitsubishi branded instructions but I think it was commissioned by them. The lights are made by a company called NSV Automotive who produce a number of kits for various manufacturers such as Mercedes Benz, Porsche, Range Roger, Rolls Royce etc.

The kit is not cheap but appropriately the product is VERY high quality. This product cannot be compared to your £25 ebay LED DRL kit. This kit comes complete with a control module alone, 2 DRL units complete with lenses (not just simple SMD LEDs) and two moulded trims which have been designed to fit perfectly onto the ASX. Once fitted they look like they look factory fit.

Complete Package

DRL Closeup

Stage 1

Depending on the age of the car you may/may not have the required relays/fuses. Open up your fuse box and take a look. If it matches that below then you need the relay and fuse

1) Relay – Mitsubishi Part Number 8627A011.

This relay needs to be put into the relay slot A-27 in the fuse/relay box in the engine bay as shown below. Its marked as the DRL relay on the fusebox layout on the underside of the fuse box cover

2) Fuse – A 10A fuse is required to feed the DRL lights. This needs to be placed into slot 13, i.e. the front right and side looking from the front of the car.

Once sorted the fuse box should look like this

Stage 2a

By default the DRLs are disabled in the cars ECU although some of the earlier cars did have them enabled. To check if they work you will need to use a voltmeter on one of the plugs. To access the plug (A52) you need to remove the radiator cover as shown below. There are 6 poppers that need to removed.

Once you have removed the trim panel you will be able to see the grey plug you need to get to. Remove the connector plug to the left and then move the socket to the left to remove it from the bracket.

Once you have removed the plug you need to probe the pin 3 (violet cable). Turn your engine on and make sure your lights are off. If you see 14v then your ready for the next step. If you don’t you need to activate them in the ECU as per stage 2b. TO make sure you are probing the correct connector, turn on your fog lights. This should not affect the voltage. If it does you have probed the fog cable not the DRL cable.

Stage 2b

The DRLs are controlled by a part call ETACS, which is responsible for all the electronic settings in your cars like auto-closing your mirrors, what lights you have etc.

To get the DRLs enabled there are two ways

1) Ask your friendly Mitsubishi Dealer – Note Mitsubishi do not support this action and thus you might find it hard to get your dealer to do this for you unless you are really good friends

2) Use Lexia software with a OBD Reader. This software can be used to

a) Enable the DRLs

b) Set the DRLs to be independent from the main lights

Once this has been completed the brains of the car will turn on the DRLs when ever you are driving without the lights on. As per stage 2a, please check you are now getting 14v on Pin3 of the grey connector when you have the engine running with no lights on.

Stage 3

Next step is to wire up the DRLs. As part of the kit is the main controller which is very simple to connect up. It takes 3 feeds. Two of these are from the DRL lights. The final from the side lights. To make like easier remove the fog surrounds and fog lights.

First work out where to position the DRL controller. I put it on the inside of the bumper on the passenger side as recommended by the instructions. I used the provided 3m pads to attach it. Make sure the plastic is nice and warm as this helps the adhesive on the pads. If its cool/cold use a small hair-dryer to warm it up.

Next do a dry run of where the cables are going to run. Feed the main power connector down behind the passenger headlight and locate it as if it was connected to the main module.

Feed the cable to the plug near the bonnet catch. Once there remove the plastic trim from the cables. This will leave a lot of spare black & red cable. Trim these off leaving enough cable to connect up to the plug.

The blue cable needs to connect to the sidelight feed. The cable provided in the kit is not long enough so it needs to be extended. I used the spare red cable to do this.

Blue cable all layer out ready to be extended

Nicely twisted ready for the solder

Soldered and then heat-shink covered to make nice and tidy

To make the install look good and nice and tidy I have used some spare sheathing and heat-shrunk the joins

End of the sidelight pickup

As the bumper wiring loom on the UK car (later models) does not have any connectors for the DRLs I have cut the cable before the connector. This makes it much easier to connect up to.

For safety seal off the ends of the cable from the plug

Now its time to solder the DRL cables up to the car loom.

DRL Red Cable -> A-52 – Pin 3 – Light Grey Cable

DRL Black Cable -> A-52 – Pin 4 – Black Cable

Once soldered make sure you use heat-shink to seal them up

You can now plug the bumper loom back in and use zip ties to keep the DRL cables nice and secure

To pick up the side light feed you need to join the DRL Blue cable in-line (i.e. don’t cut it) with Pin3 (Grey) on Plug A43 on the drivers side light. Its very fiddley to get to this plug but once removed and the bit of black tape has been removed its not too bad.

Strip back the wire coating but do NOT cut it.

Solder the blue (extended red in my case) cable to the grey cable and insulate with tape.

Plug the cable back in and zip tie the cable to secure it.

The final step of the wiring is to feed the DRL cable to the passenger side. I joined the two cables that came in the kit together and feed it from the below the fog, up behind the drivers head light. Across under the trim panel and then down behind the passenger head light. I looped up spare cable and tip tired id.

Checkpoint

Now is a good time to check all the wiring is working. Connect up the DRLs by feeding the cable through the fog lights. When you start the engine (with the lights off) the DRL should turn on with high intensity. Turn your headlights on and the DRLs should dim.

If this does not happen recheck all your connections.

Stage 4

This is the tricky stage. Due to the size of the LEDs (there are not your cheap $5 ebay efforts, they are very well made, high quality units) they do not fit without cutting into the standard bumper. The process is very well documented in the supplied instruction on how to fit it.

With the kit is some transfers which need so the cut out and stuck to the bumper. These mark out the area that needs to be cut.

The point of no return. Now cut out the area marked by the hatched area on the transfer. To cut the bumper I used my gas soldering iron with a knife attachment. This cut through the plastic very well, although melted plastic pushed out a bit this was cleaned up with a stanley knife.

Next put the DRL onto the bumper and use a pencil to mark round the edge of it. Remove the DRL so you can see the outside marking of the trim. Using the sand-paper provided in the kit rough up the bumper inside of the pencil line. This allows the adhesive to make a good strong bond. Use the beta clean solution to remove any contaminants from the plastic

Prepare the DRL plastic trim by sanding the inside lip and gain use the beta clean solution to remove any contaminants from the plastic.

To attach the trim panels, a trim adhesive – Betalink K1 adhesive is provided with the kit. This is a bit of a black gooey mess so be careful when using it. Use the supplied nozzle to spread the adhesive all around the edge of the plastic trim. Present the trim up to the bumper and push it on. The trim needs to be held in position for a many hours (5-6 before being driven minimum) so I have used the trusty old Gaffa Tape to secure the trims. If any of the K1 squeezes out of the trim then use the Betaclean solution straight away to remove it.

I left mine over night to let the bonding 100% cure.

Next remove the gaffa tape (or appropriate fixing). Test the new lights and make sure they operate correctly. Once you know its all working correctly reconnect the fog lights and replace the fog light trim.

Job Done

Some photos of the DRLs in the dark. (and wet..)

Lights Off

Sidelights & DRLs on

Indicators Flashing

HeadLights On

Dark 25s exposure for fun


2 responses to “Fitting LED DRLs – Guide”

  1. Why didn’t you use the original DRL cables from the fog lights? just cut the cables that would make the connection near the fog lights and connect the new DRL to them, no mess and no foss around with side lights or any other connections?
    Am I wrong?

  2. It depends on the year of car.

    From sometime in late 2010/early 2011, Mitsubishi stopped changed the bumper loom so that it no longer contained any of the wiring for the DRLs. This means the plug by the bonnet latch is the last place you can tap into the signal in these models.

    Obviously if you have the DRL cabling then you could attached to it there rather than under the bonnet.

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